Screen Door

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Food from the Low Country

When I first decided to check out Screen Door, I came in with high expectations. First of all, I really do savor Southern food. Secondly, this place has received good reviews from local media. Was I disappointed when I sat down for my first meal? No. In fact, I was so pleasantly surprised at how good the food was, I had to go back a second time in less than a week.

Now on the first visit I checked out the menu and saw Low Country Shrimp and Grits ($14.95) and knew this was the place. Grits is just not something I come across often in Portland, so I'm happy when I see it on a menu. After inquiring with our more than friendly server, my friend decides to order the Carolina Pulled Pork Sandwich ($9.25). Our server headily warns him that it is quite a big portion. And she wasn't kidding. The sandwich was huge, with an even larger serving of fries. More importantly, the flavor of the sandwich was smoky and sweet, while the pulled pork was very tender. Initially, my friend's thought was to save half of the sandwich for later. Apparently, it was just too good as he finished off the entire plate. As for my order, the shrimp were cooked perfectly, not the rubbery bland type you can get at many other restaraunts. The grits were a bit looser than what I prefer, but had a good herb buttery flavor that complemented the shrimp well. Of course, I added some hot sauce, because I like my food caliente.

On the second visit, I drug another friend of mine with me. Remembering the portion size from my last visit and us on a mutual budget, we decided to split their Crispy Fried Buttermilk-Battered Chicken ($14.95). I also decided ot try their soup of the day, and Creamy Mushroom soup ($3.50). The soup was fantastic. It's not the dreaded cream of mushroom soup we associate with green beans and fried onion thingys. It was less creamy and more brothy, and had a big flavor of fresh mushrooms. Next the fried chicken came out and to confirm our assumptions it was huge. Definitely large enough for two people. To my surprise it was not bone-in chicken. Rather there were 2 breaded filets. Now, to each their own with fried chicken, but this one had a cornmeal coating that was too thick for the encased chicken. It seemed like we were eating just breading. On the bright side, the dish comes with mashed potatoes and Tasso ham gravy. That was one of the best side dishes I've had in a very long time. Next time I'll order that sans chicken.

Another lovely point about Screen Door is the dining room. The seating is spaced nicely apart, which can be different from Portland restaurants trying to squeeze many tables in a small space. Also, the kitchen is open to the dining room and is situated in a way where you actually feel like you're dining at someone's house rather than a bistro with a show kitchen.

Do yourself a favor and get down to East Burnside to taste the flavors of the South.

Keywords: Southern, Local / Regional food, Dress casual, Restaurant, Everyone, No smoking, Cheap (US$ 5 - US$ 10), Dinner, Moderate (US$ 11 - US$ 20), Comfort Food, Lunch, Organic / Healthy Food, Breakfast

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MMMM

Screen door is a great neighborhood restaurant. They have a pulled-pork sandwich that is delicious and if you are there for breakfast the praline bacon (yes- praline BACON!) is divine.

Keywords: Dress casual, Restaurant, Everyone, Cheap (US$ 5 - US$ 10), Dinner, Breakfast

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MMMM

Screen door is a great neighborhood restaurant. They have a pulled-pork sandwich that is delicious and if you are there for breakfast the praline bacon (yes- praline BACON!) is divine.

Keywords: Dress casual, Restaurant, Everyone, Cheap (US$ 5 - US$ 10), Dinner, Breakfast